Have you been searching for a slow, scenic and immersive way to travel? A journey free of the hustle and bustle, yet still brimming with the adventure of multiple destinations and unforgettable moments? Embark on a truly special holiday experience when you join a Great Rail Journeys barge cruise.
I recently joined a shortened three-day version of Waterways of Alsace & Lorraine aboard the CroisiEurope-operated barge MS Jeanine, and it proved to be the perfect introduction to this peaceful style of travel.
From the moment we joined the boat in Saverne, the pace of life shifted. This holiday is not designed for rushing from place to place; it is about slowing down and savouring the moment as you drift through the Alsatian countryside. And from this quaint barge, there is no better place to watch the world gently unfold than at the water level.
Life Onboard a Modern River Barge
Catering to just 22 guests at a time, MS Jeanine is as cosy as it is comfortable. The barge has been specially designed to navigate the narrow waterways of France, and as it glides along the tree-lined canals and past traditional villages, you quickly settle into a rhythm of relaxation.
One of the defining features of a barge cruise is the wonderfully laid-back pace that every day brings. MS Jeanine has several seating areas where you can relax with a good book and great views, including a sun deck and a hot tub. There's a guitar to share warm summer evenings with your fellow travellers while lounging on the mid-deck, or if you want to follow alongside the water instead, there are bikes to use whenever the mood strikes.
What truly elevated the experience for us, though, was the exceptional six-person crew. Captain Tebo and First Mate Benoit navigated the waterways with skill and ease, while Cruise Director Esta ensured everything ran seamlessly. Sarah provided warm and attentive service throughout the trip, Michelle kept everything running smoothly in the dining area, and Leo, the chef, delivered meals that would rival many fine restaurants.
Embracing a Journey to Savour
Drifting through France's scenery is enchanting, but it's only a piece of the magic that awaits on this Alsace barge cruise. The highlight of our journey was the dining.
Each day began with freshly prepared omelettes, alongside continental favourites from cured meats and cheeses to yoghurts, pastries, breads and cereals. Lunch was available on the barge between excursions or ports of call, and later, guests gathered for CroisiEurope cocktails, a lovely daily ritual that set the tone for the evening. My favourite was Crémant, a sparkling French wine, served with a peach liquor and gold that sparkled in the fading sunlight. These cocktails were paired with hand-selected local wines, giving a true taste of the Alsace region.
As we transitioned into dinner, it was always an event to look forward to. The chef utilised fresh, local ingredients, and we were treated to specialities, such as a beautifully presented scallop starter, flavourful pork with mushrooms and a tender veal dish. For dessert, an indulgent chocolate crumb, a pear soaked in red wine and a mousse with lovage were as surprising as they were memorable.
Discovering Saverne and the Destinations Along the Way
Before MS Jeanine set underway, we had time to explore Saverne, an Alsatian town that is perfect for a leisurely stroll. With its narrow canals, half-timbered houses, historic centre and relaxed atmosphere, it's the kind of place where you can happily spend hours wandering - a picturesque starting point for the journey ahead.
Each river cruise itinerary is crafted to highlight captivating destinations, and this tour is no different; however, since we only joined for a brief period, our time on shore was limited. We did squeeze in a visit to Villa Meteor in Hochfelden, one of the oldest family-run breweries in France. The brewery has been in operation since 1640 and has been owned by the same family since 1844, making it a fascinating stop for beer lovers and historians alike.
After touring the facility and learning about traditional brewing methods, we had an opportunity to sample the famous beer. Meteor beers are also served on the barge, further connecting our excursion with the onboard experience. Even if, like me, you are not trying the beer, this is a fantastic way to uncover Alsace culture.
The Highlight of My Trip: The Saint-Louis-Arzviller Inclined Plane
One of the most incredible moments of the trip was visiting the Saint-Louis-Arzviller Inclined Plane, a marvel of engineering that replaces a flight of 17 locks on the Marne-Rhine Canal in Lorraine. While outstanding from any perspective, the vantage point from MS Jeanine is something I will always remember.
Opened in 1969, the inclined plane uses a giant water-filled caisson to transport boats up or down a slope of 44.5 metres, covering a distance of approximately 108 metres. With this innovation, ascending or descending the canal takes only about four minutes, and the total time from entering to exiting the elevator-like lift is around 20 minutes. This is a dramatic reduction from years past, when boats would spend a full day navigating the locks to accomplish the same route.
Watching this system in action is remarkable, as it combines precision engineering with an almost surreal visual experience. It is a testament to modern ingenuity and a highlight that Great Rail Journeys customers are lucky enough to experience each time they join us in this scenic region.
Why Your Next Holiday Should be an Alsace Barge Cruise
A French barge cruise through Alsace and Lorraine offers a completely different way to travel. Each journey is thoughtfully curated to combine scenic waterways, regional cuisine, local wines and cultural excursions, all delivered at an unhurried pace that invites the best kind of adventures. If you have been considering a Great Rail Journeys holiday and value relaxation, personalised service and the chance to explore lesser-seen parts of France alongside a small group, this is an ideal experience.
Maybe you're like me before my trip and have no idea what a barge is like. Perhaps you've even interpreted it to mean being enclosed or uncomfortable - worry not, travellers. I am 6 feet 3 inches tall and felt only freedom while aboard MS Jeanine. There are plenty of comfortable spaces to admire the beautiful countryside as it passes by slowly or simply relax with a drink in hand.
Even in just three days, this voyage provided a memorable glimpse into the beauty and tranquillity that canal cruising with the experts can bring. It left us wanting to return for the full itinerary, and we hope you'll join us.
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